# 默认
log_format tcp_format '$time_local|$remote_addr|$protocol|$status|$bytes_sent|$bytes_received|$session_time|$upstream_addr|$upstream_bytes_sent|$upstream_bytes_received|$upstream_connect_time';

# 修改
log_format tcp_format '$proxy_protocol_addr [$time_local] '
                   '$protocol $status $bytes_sent $bytes_received '
                   '$session_time "$upstream_addr" '
                   '"$upstream_bytes_sent" "$upstream_bytes_received" "$upstream_connect_time"';